July 21, 2014Comments are off for this post.

ROME | ITALY

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When you ask people who have visited Italy what their favorite city is, the answer I most often hear is Florence. While I do love Florence, there is something about Rome that steals my heart. And I say that not because people there repeatedly thought I was Italian. NBD.

I think the best way to explain it is this : Florence is your rich, sophisticated cousin who you see every few years, while Rome is your annoying uncle who attends every single family gathering. Florence is exciting for its elusiveness / exclusivenss, so much so that you've come to forget to appreciate Rome's constant presence and companionship.

Am I making any sense? ...

Yes, Rome is a big, bustling European city—like many others—but there is something grimy yet charming about it. I could get happily lost in the colorful buildings, endless pizza joints, people-watching ( Euro trash fashion is UH-mazing ) and history that is seeped in every cracked sidewalk, open window + gregarious conversation on the street. If you've never been, GO. The city will make you feel small + inconsequential in the most humbling of ways.

You'll notice I didn't list any museums below, but that's because there are SO many wonderful places to see beautiful art + sculpture. If you are looking to narrow it down, I recommend the Capitoline Museum + Borghese Gallery. They were our two faves on the trip.

Also, if you haven't joined the Rick Steves' fan club yet, do it. His books offer city walks, guided tours, excellent recommendations and anything you would ever want for traveling in Europe.

We heart you Rick.


Eat-Italy

PIZZERIA FLORIDA : Happily situated right outside our door, Pizzeria Florida was excellent for cheap + tasty pizza. Every one we tried was excellent ( especially washed down with a Peroni beer ), but my favorite had to have been the traditional margherita.

GELATERIA VICE : Hands down, the best gelato we had in Rome. I got strawberry + pistachio, because—duh, it's the best—while the manfriend got his chocolate + coffee combo. This place was around the corner from our apartment, which means if I haven't convinced you yet, you should stay in Largo Argentina ( see details below ).

FORNO : Tucked away in the back corner of the popular Campo de Fiori, Forno is a delicious bakery with even more delicious pizza. Their rosemary potato breakfast pizza is my life, and I never want to eat anything else for breakfast ever again.

FRENI E FRIZIONI : Italians know what's up. All around the city, bars host happy hours where all you need to do is purchase one drink ( normally €6 to €10 ) for an all-access pass to a buffet of fresh, delicious food. Freni's was the cheapest, all-vegetarian + located in a cool piazza in the Trastevere neighborhood.

TAVERNA TRILUSSA : Our farewell to Rome meal at Trilussa was nothing short of delicious. We started with mozzarella en carroza ( essentially, a big fried cheese curd ), moved on to bombolotti alla carbonara, ravioli mimosa, tiramisu and limoncello. Oh yah, and lots of house wine.


Stay-Italy

CROSS POLLINATE : I cannot say enough lovely things about the Largo Argentina Terrace studio apartment we scored in Rome. While the space was small, the multiple private rooftop terraces + cheap price ( €90 ) made it well worth the stay.


See-Italy

VATICAN CITY : No trip to Rome is complete without a day trip to Vatican City. It's worth a full day to visit the Vatican Museum, gawk in wonder at the Sistine Chapel + St. Peter's Basilica and wander around the city streets. Skip the expensive tour, buy Rick Steves' book + he'll ensure you see everything you need to.

COLOSSEUM / ROMAN FORUM : Another full day of your trip should be devoted to the Colosseum + Roman Forum. While both places are super touristy ( people EVERYWHERE ), they're the heart of ancient Rome and absolutely mind-blowing in so many ways.

APPIAN WAY BIKE TOUR : The manfriend and I splurged on a day-long bike trip on the ancient Appian Way. We booked through this company + we're happily greeted by our new friend—chain-smoking + romantic bike enthusiast Manuel. We biked six hours, stopping at the ancient city walls, Catacombs, aqueducts + the cutest pecorino romano cheesemaking farm. One of my favorite days from the trip.

TRASTEVERE / JEWISH GHETTO : Two neighborhoods full of history + worth spending an afternoon in, Trastevere and the Jewish Ghetto are located right along the Tiber River. Tasty eats here include La Taverna del Ghetto ( best falafel ).

CAMPO DE FIORI : A daily market, tasty restaurants + cute, colorful buildings are my three favorite reasons to visit Campo de Fiori. It's a great morning stop for breakfast pizza at Forno, an espresso + fresh flowers before moving on with the rest of your day.

June 30, 2014Comments are off for this post.

AMALFI COAST | ITALY

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As you can see, our trip to Italy did not suck.

The manfriend + I spent five days lounging in Positano, which is nestled along the Amalfi Coast, and a popular holiday destination in southern Italy. We probably could have stayed here our entire two-week trip, as the whole area is nothing if not dreamy. There is something about the colorful houses tucked + stacked so neatly into the sloping hillside that makes you forget about pesky things like work and stress and the news and eating healthy.

Instead, you do things like sleep in, read books ( finished these two on the trip ), enjoy leisurely breakfasts, enjoy leisure lunches, enjoy leisurely dinners, shower ( only if you want ), eat as much as you want and drink wine at an hour that's totally socially inappropriate.

Or, in my case, you skip the wine + down the local Italian cocktail: the aperol spritz instead.

Most of our days were spent just meandering through the winding streets of Positano or another of Amalfi's small towns—the manfriend with map in hand and me annoyingly stopping every two minutes to take a picture of another colorful building or batch of purple flowers that seemed to spring up everywhere, even in the most unlikely of crevices.

The whole place felt like a dream. A delicious, picturesque, I-never-want-it-to-end dream.


Eat-Italy

LA ZAGARA : Our regular morning breakfast spot, La Zagara is a historic bakery tucked away in the winding streets of Positano. Great coffee, excellent pastries + cheap prices. I highly recommend the bomboloni de Nutella ( Nutella-filled doughnut ).

CAPRICCI : A lovely café near the beach, Capricci was a favorite for cheap and tasty sandwiches, pizza + pastas.  We recommend their Caprese ( manfriend ) and Ravello ( me -> prosciutto, mozzarella, tomato, grilled eggplant, parmesan + truffle oil ) sandwiches.

DELIKATESSEN : The cutest Italian grocery store you ever did see. Delikatessen is a small grocer with fresh fruits, veggies + snacks as well as a hot / cold bar that's perfect for packing a picnic.

COLLINA : A short walk from our hotel, we grabbed excellent takeaway pizza from Collina along with a bottle of bubbly. Their gelato is also TLF ( to live for )—I suggest strawberry + pistachio.

RISTORANTE BRUNO : Dinner with a view does not get any better than this. Bruno makes for a great, not-too-expensive meal—we ordered caprese salad, mussels, spaghetti carbonara + gnocchi, and were extremely happy, albeit extremely full afterwards.

RISTORANTE DA VINCENZO : When you're ready to treat yoself, make the trek out of central Positano to Da Vincenzo. The most delicious house wine, caprese salad, gnocchi, anchovy fennel pasta+ lemon cake awaits you. Need proof? See here.


Stay-Italy

LA TAVOLOZZA RESIDENCE : I cannot say enough lovely things about La Tavolozza. The staff is exceedingly sweet + helpful ( hi Francesca + Paola! ), and the rooms are minimal but boast a view that's completely worth the cheap €95 / night price.


See-Italy

POSITANO : Positano is the most posh of the Amalfi Coast towns, and for good reason. It can be seen in a day—be sure that includes a stop at the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta church. There are lots of shops + restaurants and two rock beaches perfect for taking it slow.

POMPEII : The ruins of Pompeii make for a great day trip. You'll take the local Circumvesuviana train from Sorrento, then hop off at Pompeii Scavi to explore the excavated area of the ancient city. Budget 3 to 4 hours to wander around. We highly recommend it.

AMALFI : A 50-minute ride on the Sita bus lands you in the busy port of Amalfi—a grittier, more genial city on the coast. It has an AMAZING paper museum—Museo della Carta—with printing machines dating back to the 13th century as well as a church, Duomo di Amalfi. Both are absolutely worth stopping for.

ATRANI : From Amalfi, Atrani is a short 15-minute walk. It's a small city with a quaint downtown and not much else to see. Pull up a chair at one of the cafés in Piazza Umberto, order the spritz lemon ( the local cocktail ) + just enjoy the view.

RAVELLO : A 30-minute bus ride lands you in Ravello, a small village perched atop the mountains. It's absolutely stunning. If you have a bit of extra cash to spend, I recommend eating dinner at one of the overpriced restaurants for the unbelievable view.

May 28, 2014Comments are off for this post.

KELLY + JOFF

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These are my cute friends Kelly + Joff.

For a long time, I told Kelly I was going to force her + Joff into a fake engagement session so I could practice my photography skills on some ridiculously photogenic people. We talked and talked about it ( including conducting an awesome Internet search for bad engagement photos )....then nothing ever happened, because as you know, life happens.

Then Kelly texts me on a random February day, and we decide to take photos that Saturday in the dead of this brutal, brutal winter. Why you ask? You probably want to hear that—surprise!—Kelly + Joff are now engaged. But no. The answer is that we are both just a wee bit crazy.

Luckily, we camped out at Merchant for most of the session, drinking delicious craft cocktails + annoying the bartender, who I am pretty sure was less than thrilled we showed up right when the place opened. I highly recommend ordering The Regret—Death's Door vodka ( or gin ), lime juice + rosemary served on the rocks, for the record.

I am little disappointed we never got to recreate this photo with downtown Madison's parking meters, but c'est la vie—these kids are still my faves anyways.