January 3, 2020Comments are off for this post.

India

“To love. To be loved. To never forget your own insignificance. To never get used to the unspeakable violence and the vulgar disparity of life around you. To seek joy in the saddest places. To pursue beauty to its lair. To never simplify what is complicated or complicate what is simple. To respect strength, never power. Above all, to watch. To try and understand. To never look away. And never, never to forget.” Arundhati Roy

I don’t know if I quite have the right words to explain the three weeks I spent in India even though it's been nearly three months since I returned. Words seem to elude me these days, which is perhaps why it's been a year and a half since I wrote my last post. But regardless of all that, here is my very best attempt:

India is everything at once delivered in one swift throat punch. It's the worst thing you’ve ever smelled immediately followed by the most magical and soul-affirming thing you’ve ever witnessed. It's not always easy, but I like that it doesn’t sacrifice itself for your comfort. India forces you to stretch beyond all surface distraction — the things we, with our Western lens, deem 'negative,' be it poverty, pollution, traffic, heat, smells (oh the smells!) — and recognize that humanity coexists in imperfection and the fuzzy in-between.

Sometimes, it feels like one big contradiction. But I think that's exactly the point.

Varanasi / Khajuraho / Agra / Rishikesh / Jaipur, October 2019

More photos on my Instagram: @hollisanne_

March 5, 2018Comments are off for this post.

Travel Guide — South Korea

Ever since I was a wee curly-haired figure skater dreaming of her chance at making the Olympics (spoiler alert: I had zero chance), I've had the Olympic dream.

There's a certain magic that materializes every four years as our televisions become saturated with epic feats and heartbreaking fails, and I, for one, am a bonafide card-carrying Olympics obsessor. If you follow me on Instagram, then you know — I did the damn thing and crossed it off my bucket list!!!

I may not have salchowed and laybacked my way to the Winter Olympics like I once hoped, but our two weeks in Korea were amazing, delicious and so, so inspiring. In just the first three days, we danced to "Gangnam Style" at the Opening Ceremonies (and watched Queen Yuna light the flame), snuck into the VIP family lounge & promptly guzzled all their champagne, were interviewed by Finnish NPR and hoarded an obscene amount of Korean snail oil beauty masks in Seoul.

Then we attended our first event — figure skating — and I began openly weeping when I saw Tessa Virtue & Scott Moir (my favorite Canadian ice dancers) warming up on the ice. And Adam Rippon skated his crazy gorgeous long program, and I lost it again. THEN I met Johnny Weir, Tara Lipinski, Scott Hamilton and Terry Gannon, and I thought I was going to have to call the entire Olympics off because my 10-year-old self could barely keep her shit together.

We attended snowboarding halfpipe and saw Chloe Kim dominate the world. We went to a local Korean spa and spent the Lunar New Year harshly exfoliating ourselves in the company of 100 other women. We witnessed the two most insane sports — skeleton and aerials. And we ate and drank (like attteee and drannnkkkk), which may have included copious amounts of boozy sparkling water by the can from 7-11.

What I'm trying to say here amidst these rambling paragraphs is going to the Winter Olympics in Pyeongchang was one of those travel experiences I'm privileged to have had.  I don't quite have all the words to explain it, so here's a few photos as well as a mini travel guide to Seoul for your enjoyment.

Tokyo 2020, anyone?

I spent just a few days in Seoul wandering the shopping streets, endless coffee shops and sign-strewn alleyways, and could've easily spent many more. If you're looking for a place to crash between all the eating (so much eating!!!!!), walking & exploring, I can't recommend my AirBnb in trendy Mapo-Gu enough.


PALACES

Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung are the main palaces, and both are more than worthy of a visit. My favorite part? The cutest young Korean couples dressed in traditional hanbok clothing posing for photos. After Gyeongbokgung, head over to the nearby Bukchon Hanok Village (a brisk 10-minute walk) to explore a neighborhood of old Korean hanok homes. First designed and built in the 14th century, they're well-preserved and intricately beautiful.

FOOD

Start your day at Gwangjang Market, a traditional street market, for your choice of local deliciousness: I went with gim bap (simple sushi roll), bindaetteok (mung bean pancake) and tteokbokki (spicy rice cake). Head to Sobok, where this uber cool shop serves brown rice ice cream with dried persimmon, grain syrup, pumpkin seeds and edible flowers. Arriate is a must if for no other reason than enjoying a cup of tea in this flower café. Yes, FLOWER CAFÉ (almost as good as the raccoon cafés).

SHOPPING

I should retitle this section "Stationery Stores" because that's the only shopping that matters here. My favorites (in order) are Object, Artbox (a chain with locations across Korea) and Sangsang Madang. Here's a list of a few others if you love paper goods as much as I do. Don't forget a walk down Insadong Street! It's a bit touristy but houses the city's old calligraphy shops.

HONGDAE NEIGHBORHOOD

This hipster neighborhood is teeming with beautiful young Koreans (there's a few universities in the area) and a great place for eating, night shopping and incredible street performers. This 'hood comes alive after 7pm, so head out for a stroll down Hongdae University Street and soak the chaotic liveliness in.

VIEWS

There's nothing better than a bird's eye view of a big city, and a trip up the Namsan Tower cable car reveals an expansive, 360 degree look-out of this Asian capital.

All photos taken on my iPhone 6S, edited in VSCO.

October 6, 2017Comments are off for this post.

NYC — A Weekender Guide

No matter where I travel in the world, there is always something special about coming back to New York City.

The energy and the food and the art and all the people and my friends who call the city home and that magical sense of possible-ness. Sometimes, I think I'd quite like to live there if someone would pay me half a million dollars so I could actually afford it.

But I digress now before I go on a old lady rant about housing prices.

Perhaps, I ♥ NYC because I've always loved feeling like a minuscule droplet of water in an endlessly powerful ocean. I find a strange sense of comfort in merging with the masses and roving unknown among the buildings that loom so large and all-knowing above your head. I find joy in discovering little hidden gems — whether it be a shop, restaurant or inappropriate penis cactus graffiti — only to be quickly brought back to reality by the putrid smell of trash. The dichotomy of it all is weird and awful and awesome, and it's what makes New York City...well, New York City.

If you haven't been and have the opportunity, GO. There is no other city quite like it. And know there's no way you'll ever see everything in the city in a long weekend (or lifetime), so the best thing to do is lace up your shoes, pick a few eats + must-sees, pack some moleskin padding (#noblisters) and get on walking.

EAT — Manhattan

Start the day at Russ and Daughters to gawk at their menu design and devour the Classic Board: smoked salmon, cream cheese, tomato, onion and capers on a bagel. Classic Jewish deli eats. An afternoon stop at Flora Bar (located on the bottom floor of the MET Breuer) allows your feet to rest while enjoying a glass of wine. For happy hour or dinner, the panisse (chickpea fritters) and white negronis at King are not to be missed. This West Village restaurant is run by three women and a friend of a friend is the bartender. HI PETER. While you're in the Village, stop by The Elk for a java hit or Jack's Wife Freda for a late lunch.

EAT — Brooklyn

Start your day right, and swing by Dough for ridiculously good brioche-like doughnuts or Bien Cuit for a twice-baked almond croissant. Located off the southwest corner of Prospect Park, Della makes for a lovely dinner. Everything we ate was ace. Or, go to Miss Ada in Fort Greene and devour the whipped ricotta with brown butter, honey and sage. It was — hands down — the best thing I ate all trip.

Don't forget — for cheap eats, there's always Shake Shack and a treat to be had at any one of the city's nine Milk Bar locations.

SEE

Art museum nerds unite! I spent an entire morning browsing the Whitney Museum of American Art, which was unexpectedly lovely. Between the magical minimalism of Alexander Calder mobiles, the history of protests exhibition and a few Ellsworth Kelly paintings, I was in my happy place. Plus, the view from their multi-story rooftop is selfie-worthy. I also went to the Metropolitan Museum of Art (aka The Met) for the first time, and their modern art collection far exceeded my expectations.

You can't help but be a tourist in NYC, so I managed long walks on the High Line, through Central Park and across the Manhattan Bridge for a total of 90,000+ steps while I was there (*pats self on back*).

SHOP

In an effort to be a responsible adult and stick to my trip budget, I didn't do much shopping in NYC. I browsed a few museum shops (because museum shops are the best) and made quick stops at the new Sezané store in Soho as well as the Everlane showroom. In Brooklyn, I visited Bird Brooklyn (dream clothing store), Regular Visitors (dream everything store) and Books Are Magic (dream book store).

[More photos on my Instagram]